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Canes are stiff, yet flexible, regarded by most, and encouraged by writings of the Victoriana School Days of Boys and Girls, as tools for corporal punishment, which of course is true. However their other uses are often over shadowed by the impressions one has of them in one’s mind’s eye. In the right hands they can be sensual and in the wrong hands a nightmare. Caning, sometimes referred to as: the English, the English Method, English Discipline, or English Style, is an art form which takes practise. A lot of practise. An exercise in control not easily attained. It is a serious play implement, it is capable of causing serious damage and is not for use by someone who has read five web sites and hit a pillow a dozen times. It demands a level of concentration above that expected for other forms of BDSM play. If you seriously wish to pursue this as a form of play take the time to seek instruction from an expert. It is not something we would undertake in a crowded or small play space as a back strike could do as much damage to an onlooker as a forward stroke could do to the party being caned. One has to be extremely aware of all the safety measures, strike areas, density, resilience, length and diameters of the implements as they all account for a different effect. No two rattan canes behave in the same way and should be treated individually.

Canes can be made of many materials, most commonly rattan, more modernly, Delrin, Lexan, and fibreglass rod, polycarbonate and carbon fibre. (Acrylic is not really strong enough and not recommended for use as it tends to break.) If you do prepare a synthetic cane for use make sure you round and smooth the tip. The synthetic forms are more readily purchased, they are smooth, easily maintained, usually of a like performance if one

Natural Rattan Cane

has to replace and they do deliver, because of their high density, a strong effect, a deeper penetration and can break the skin easily. The comparison drawn between say a multi strand light soft leather flogger and a thick strand red hide flogger. The thud is much different. For overall psychological effect there is nothing like natural rattan. It has a different sound, both as it cuts through the air and when it strikes. There is better control, better flexibility and there is better elasticity in the recoil of the implement. A hand does not jar as much compared to using a synthetic cane. Bamboo is rigid not flexible and is totally unpredictable, one can never tell when or if it is going to split. Once it does it can pinch, grab, split or cut skin most severely. Plus by its very nature, with its surface made up of raises and hollows around joints. You don’t get a lovely fine straight line welt on the skin. Bamboo causes more bruising.

Selection, Preparation, Maintenance

When selecting a cane make sure it has flexibility, bend it quite significantly and watch to see if it springs back into its original shape. Check for any flaws, nicks, cracks, bruises on the surface. Being experienced in French Polishing it is great to give your canes at least 12 layers of white shellac which is then rubbed back with dry 0000 steel wool and coated liberally with a good quality wax. You can use a brand called Liberon it dries to a hard shiney surface. Just rub it on and leave it over night to harden and rub it off in the morning with an open weave polishing cloth. Don’t use beeswax, it is rubbish, leaves a sticky, easily marked surface and never sets. If you are not capable of using shellac then three to four coats of vanish with a fine haired paint brush and a waxing will pretty much give you the same effect. This protects the surface and allows cleansing after use. Some people use polyurethane but it doesn’t have a natural look to me and unless applied properly it tends to flake off rattan.

The intense impact cane. The cane has a firm grip handle and a leather wrist strap for an easy grip. Whip the cane through the air and onto their skin and watch them wiggle and squirm

The length of the cane governs the strike capacity. A longer cane (for the experienced only) delivering the greater strike power. With a thicker cane one gets more impact or thud and of course a wider more controlled strike. A thinner version – more sting, they may (in inexperienced hands) cut, especially if welts are crossed, much more control is needed. The rule simply being: small diameter – sharp stingy pain. Larger diameter – thud (dull pain because of the deeper tissue penetration). Probably doesn’t need to be said however, with a cane, as with a flogger – though the depth varies considerably between the two, you are penetrating tissue and creating trauma – welts and bruises are damaged skin tissue.

Lengths vary with intended use, for example a Dominant female using it on genitals and testicles would find and 18″ length suitable, as it would allow her to get into those tight areas that need attention. The typical lengths seem to be 2′(60cm), 3′ (80-90cm), up to say

Lexan cane with aluminum handle

42″(120cm) for the more experienced. Find the length that you most enjoy to be somewhere in between about 3’3″ with a diameter of between 5/16ths to 1/2″ mark. The diameters range from 1/4″ to around 3/4′s of an inch. The bigger the diameter and length the more control, aim and skill needed. You can use the following methods: Rope or acrylic cord – applied in the same manner in which you splice rope ends, using a clear drying glue to hold it in place, then dip the handle into the rubberized compound used to coat tools which is readily available from hardware stores and allow it to set OR buy some black shock absorbing rubber tube with a diameter slightly smaller than the cane, cut the length required and using hot water heat the rubber and slide it on OR use the first method, rope cord, following the same procedure and then buy some heat shrink from an electrical store and shrink carefully by a naked flame until it contracts around the cord handle OR fashion and hand grip from leather in the manner of a flogger.

Canes should be maintained regularly, a dry heated environment will age the cane, after all it comes from a tropical humid climate, so store it in a dry cool place away from direct sun and heat, hanging if possible to keep it straight. Once a year or when required sand the tip back to raw fibre and stand the cane in a small bowl of water overnight. Much the same as flowers cane will draw the water up into the fibre core. Recoat the tip with whatever method you used previously and rewax.

Assume the Position

Each recipient has a favoured position but whatever that may be it should be one of least distraction, well supported where there is no concentration required for the maintaining of the position. Being bent over a piece of solid furniture or a rail or support bench specifically constructed for the purpose is probably the best suggestion. A semi-circular padded spanking bench is ideal, as is the end of a sturdy table or desk. A low

Stainless steel cane

backed armchair that can be positioned where required is also a good choice. Kneeling or lying face down on a bed are also amongst the favourites though most of the bedrooms these days aren’t quite big enough to allow swing clearance. The bed should not be low as this will mean the cane strikes with the tip rather than the length. The other thing is that you have to repositioned because of the width. Some like to stand braced by a wall. Of course bondage can be used if required but this sometimes infringes on the experience. Excess movement in any position is to be discouraged and the simplest method for this is to start the count again. No questions should be asked after the session commences, the recipient should only be required to count the strokes or ask for the next. The assumed position should be one where the cane travels in a horizontal plane or as close to that as one can get, at a height that doesn’t make the discipliner dip below or above an axis point just above his hip. Rule of thumb you should use, the axis point is where the elbow when bent touches the side of the body. But of course you aren’t limited to just that position.

Technique

Caning has absolutely nothing to do with how hard one can strike. It has to do with timing, rhythm and building to a desired end result. With caning, unlike flogging or other flagellation forms, contact with the flesh takes time to register. Canes are deep tissue implements. It takes time for the throb to manifest and rise through the tissue. Nerve ends compress and expand. One must take the time to allow that process to take place. So it is pointless striking quickly with power. Why end a rising pleasure when the peak has not be reached. Rolling of the cane over the area just struck, pressing it into the welt, whispering in an ear of what is still to come, caressing the rising welt with the open palm, brushing the labia, running a nail casually down the back. Lots of ways to fill in time between strokes if that is your fancy. Or simply press the cane into the buttocks after the previous stroke indicating that this is where the next stroke will land. Thus adding once more anticipation.

“Even though it’s a harder pain… it’s a slower pain. It takes time to travel… and seems to emanate out from where it connects. The feeling of his hands on my skin where i’ve been hit… is electrifying. It’s like a millions bolts of pleasure that spread right through me.”
(Anon sub)

The actual ‘target area’, which you are going to cane, is usually the fleshy part of the buttocks, the highest strike area being just below the cleft of the buttocks and the lowest the crease where the buttocks meet the legs. Depending on the assumed position be very aware of the tail bone. If you run your fingers slowly down the spine you may be surprized at just how far it goes into the crack of their buttocks. If you cane casually probably a good idea to check this each time. Striking the tail bone can have dire effects and cause permanent injury. This is why many who cane prefer the submissive/bottom to actually lie flat on the floor, bed or bench. In that position the tail bone is afforded the greatest protection as well as minimising the concentration required from the submissive/bottom in holding a position. Of course you are not just limited to this “target area” but is it generally regarded as the caning area of the body. See below for further target areas. For some of these areas you would have to use a lightweight cane with either a slow or rapid tapping action (wrist only).

Preparation of the target area is much the same in caning as it is for all flagellation forms. The skin needs to be warmed up. This can be achieved with a light drumming effect of the area with no force behind the strikes. Sometimes a spanking warm up achieves this best and it is after all a nice combination. Make sure the play area is warm. When the skin gets that lovely healthy rosey complexion and the skin is warm to touch you are in a position to start actual cane play. The submissive/bottom should be deeply relaxed, a massage prior to play is always recommended. Take the time to warm up your body as well before play. Drawing your arm across in front of your throat and capturing it with the other arm bend upward at the elbow. By applying gentle pressure you stretch all the muscles through the shoulder into the back. Flying rotations of the arms in circular motions forward and back are also good loosening exercises. Take the time to roll your head in a circle chin forward to your so it brushes your chest and head back as far as you can towards your back. This is gentle exercise. Shake out the hands and fingers which will warm the joints and loosen the forearm, wrist and upper arm. If you find your wrist is weak purchase a squash ball and squeeze it as an exercise. This well develop the wrist and forearm muscles and can be done anyway, anytime. Always nice to cut the air with a cane as a practise and loosening up exercise, also helps to get a feel for an individual implement. Nothing like the sound of cane cutting the air to built a sense of anticipation, a greater psychological effect on the positioned submissive. Having said that once the caning session starts the submissive/bottom should trust and not anticipate the next stroke, rather, accept the inevitability of there being one and concentrate of their deep breathing instead.

You will find there are two basic techniques used for caning, the ‘wrist only method’ and the ‘arm, wrist and shoulder method’. The wrist movement entails only the movement of the wrist and a portion of the lower arm. If you were to view the actual movement involved it would be between two and three inches only at the axis (the point at which the cane is enclosed by the hand) the elbow is tucked against the body and the power is generated by movement in the lower arm only using rapid wrist movement to flick the cane at the target area. The flexibility of the cane can used to some advantage here and takes some control on the part of the user but over all you have a greater degree of accuracy using this method. This is often referred to as tattooing. You won’t be able to get any real power behind the blows but you can build to a constant level varying speeds as you go. Most submissive find tattooing sensual and it prepares the target area for what is to come.

The ‘wrist, arm and shoulder method’ requires the arm to move away from the body and the shoulder to be placed behind the power of the stroke finishing with a wrist movement to control the strike pushing the cane into the target area. This method requires a greater degree of accuracy and therefore a great deal of practise beforehand. The swing can either be in a horizontal or vertical arc. To gain the accuracy required try holding the can further in from the end, thus shortening it, as your confidence grows move the hand back gradually to the end of the cane. This is in effect shortening and gradually lengthing the stroke of the cane. Using this method you can either – follow through the stroke – holding it can as it strikes firmly into the flesh of the buttocks for a greater degree of pain – or allow the cane to bounce back and lift away from the buttocks for a lighter blow. With either is is wise to allow the pain to rise to the surface, so to speak, timing your strokes to gain the maximum effect.

“The time he caned me while i sucked his cock was just so overwhelmingly erotic for me… being able to feel his arousal and feed off it… and the more aroused i became… the more aroused he became… and the sensations of the cane became a biting, stinging, warm and pleasurable feeling. I don’t know when enough is enough with the cane. The more aroused i become… the more i want. The fact that it may be causing damage is totally irrelevant to me at that point… i have no judgment. It’s a feeling of wanting to feel it harder and harder… to the point where i feel like i’d just burst forth in orgasmic ecstacy.”
(Anon sub)

We have already touched on positioning above. The correct position allows an even strike. The last thing you want is one cheek to receive the full force and the other cheek to receive the tip only. This disturbs the pattern of the recipients head process. Often drawing them back rather than taking then deeper into subspace. The assumed position should be one where the cane travels in a horizontal plane or as close to that as one can get, at a height that doesn’t make the discipliner dip below or above an axis point just above his hip. In other words the cane travels in an arc from that point. Be aware that as in flogging you can get cane wrap you will be surprised at just how much flexibility some canes have. The tip of the cane should be kept in the middle of the furthest cheek from the practioner’s position. Once confidence has been gained, and you haven’t done any serious damage to the recipent move the tip further out so that is it about one inch from the side of the buttock furtherest from you. That way you avoid wrap which will surely happen if the tip extends past the buttock. Try some trial strokes first and question as to evenness. You only learn by asking. If you adjust your stance you can change the strike zone. In other words left to right, forward and back.

Don’t deliver the stroke to exactly the same spot each time. This is a recipe for disaster and severe trauma and bruising. Work the whole area evenly from top to bottom. An even succession of cane stripes down the buttocks is the goal with a gap of about one inch between. Don’t start where you wish to finish as regards power of stroke, like anything you build to a climax. Just try initially for the pattern this can be attained with even light strokes. Feet and body positioning is the secret to success, if you stand to far forward or to far back from the target area the strike will be uneven, meaning one cheek is going to get more impact than the other. Use the stroke marks left to determine whether in fact your positioning is incorrect. The perfect stroke should be parallel to the buttocks just before it lands that way each cheek gets an equal impact.

If you are worried about causing severe trauma, cane the recepient whilst they are wearing thick clothing, perhaps have them wear several layers of underwear. Good time for some ‘cotton tail’ training, or even nappy training. The use of a folded wet towel over the buttocks is yet another method of cutting down the possibility of trauma and if you use a red food colouring agent on the cane you can clearly see the results of your stroke on the towel.

The forehand and backhand action in tennis is very close to the method you use without the arm extension involved in tennis. The cane is driven by the forearm and wrist, though the shoulder muscles also come into play. It is a nice clean action where the upper arm doesn’t in fact move any distance from the body. The hip and waist stays in position and the upper body twists as the strike is delivered. A good exercise for this is to extend your arms and cut the air rotating from the waist up feet planted firmly. The same as in all things there is no right or wrong way, the way that works best your you is the right way.

There a definite rhythm for each type of cane and with that comes the rhythm between strokes because each has a totally different effect. With a short cane, it is almost totally wrist only driven and because it doesn’t have to travel a great distance accuracy can be easily achieved with practise. This is a rapid delivery implement. Patterns of 3 to 5 with the 6th just slightly harder then perhaps a pattern of 5 soft then a pattern of 3 with 3 hard. You make the rhythm up that suits you. But allow the pain to rise.

Formal caning with a larger cane adopt the 6 pattern method. Six delivered with a 5-10 second gap between each, then a gap of say 30 seconds to let that pattern rise, then repeat. Of course you could if you wish simply have a strike rate without pattern, single blows. There are heaps of variations you can let the cane bounce up instead of digging in – where you purposely hold the cane to the skin after striking and delay the second stage of pain – and then follow through with another quick stroke. Then settle back to a slower rhythm. Totally up to you. With the cane you only have to screw up once, people don’t come running back for more.

Once you become proficient with the implement perhaps try for ‘The Gate’ this is where you apply five evenly spaced strokes down the buttocks and the sixth stroke is delivered at a 45 degree angle diagonally across the five previous strokes. This last stroke forms “The Gate” pattern by linking the other five. Just be aware that cutting across other welts you can open the skin and cause severe bleeding in some cases. Of course this is exactly the desired effect for some thus making the last stroke the hardest of them all opening up the other five welts.

As a testament to control the Chinese developed whipping by bamboo to a fine art. As an alternative to the soles of the feet, favoured elsewhere, the bare buttocks were the target for incessant, featherlight blows. The same devastating effect as that of the bastinado being produced within a matter of minutes. During the Manchu dynasty victims were flogged by ‘lictors’ wielding long thin canes. So adept were they that they could strike hundreds of times without lacerating the flesh, or draw blood with three blows. Such expertise was achieved only by constant practise on a block of bean curd, a substance resembling thick custard. Perfection was not reached until they were able to strike repeatedly without breaking the surface.



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