Whether you’re working with pallet wrap, duct tape, or something else altogether, at some point you’ll have a completed mummy. Then what?

If your wrap is conservative and done with care, your subject won’t be in any discomfort. There will be no rolls digging into the skin, and the overall tension won’t be so great as to cause problems. Combine this with a comfortable temperature, and there’s no reason you can’t play with your new creation for a while.

If you’re working with a duct-tape wrap, you can try cutting holes somewhat smaller than the engorged nipples; when you pull the cotton balls out the nipples should follow. They’ll be snuggly constrained by the small hole, keeping them engorged and sensitive. Bear in mind, though, that the edges of the duct tape can become uncomfortable after a while; if you anticipate a long session, you may want to cut larger holes.

You can also gain access to other parts of the anatomy. A woman’s genital area is particularly easy to work with, thanks to the wrap being away from the skin at the crotch and between the legs. Just carefully cut away a round or square piece of wrap an inch or two across; you can then use a vibrator as shown here… or whatever else strikes your fancy.

As you’re pursuing these pleasures, keep in mind that your subject is completely wrapped in a (usually) non-breathing material, making it difficult for the body to cool itself. There may also be issues of pulled muscles from involuntary reactions. It’s better to be a bit over-cautious than to push too far and spoil things.

If your partner enjoys bondage and likes to have “quiet time,” you might consider going the other way: make your mummy as comfortable as possible, then just let him or her quietly rest. This isn’t total sensory deprivation by a long stretch, but it’s amazingly effective. You can add a pair of headphone-style hearing protectors over the wrap to help reduce outside distractions. Sometimes better is the old style “over the ear” headphones, plugged into an FM radio tuned between stations with the muting turned off; the quiet rushing noise can help blanket out room sounds. Foam earplugs that are inserted into the ear canal are even more effective, but you have to add these before you wrap, and they’re not easily removed in mid-scene if you decide you’d like to for some reason.

If you go the quiet route, you might be tempted to slip out of the room. Don’t. Remember, your mummy is totally helpless. If something goes wrong, a mummy can’t even call for help. You shouldn’t leave your partner’s side, not even for a moment. Their safety is in your hands.

Now, that’s not to say you can’t pretend to leave, if that’s something that would add to your play. Just stay on this side of the door when you close it, then slip quietly back into position. This can be a tremendous mind game to play with a mummified partner, but be absolutely sure panic or other negative reactions won’t be the result before you try this.

At some point, either you or your mummy is going to decide it’s time to end the scene. But how? Unwrapping is the obvious answer for elastic bandages, but it takes far too long for plastic wrap, and is a virtual impossibility in the case of duct tape.

If you can’t unwrap, it’s time to grab those bandage scissors. Find an area where you can start, like between the legs or through large nipple holes. It’s difficult to cut the skin with bandage scissors, but be careful not to pinch!

Once you have an opening large enough to get a finger through, start holding the wrap away from the skin as you cut. Plastic wrap tends to stick to the skin, and pulling it away by sliding your finger alongside where you’re cutting will allow you to move faster with less risk.

For a person who has a love-hate relationship with being tickled, for example, the soles of the feet might be freed early on. But when it comes time to extract your playmate, it would be better often start with the head. This gives your subject the opportunity to breath easily and speak with you (though don’t expect much conversation if you’ve done a good job and sent your mummy to subspace). Be very careful around the face, especially the eyes and ears. Work two fingers under the wrap here, one on either side of the scissors, and cut very slowly and cautiously.

And don’t forget there’s hair under there… you don’t want to give a bad haircut as a side-effect of the scene! If you cut from the neck up the side of the face and then across and back down, you can free the face and leave a “cap” or “hood” of sorts on the rest of the head. If you then proceed downward, cutting a slit towards the feet, you can eventually slip the wrap off the head without cutting too much near the hair.

Once you’ve slit the front, you can “peel” the entire wrap off. Go slowly; plastic wrap tends to stick to the skin; amazingly so, if the wrapee has been encased for any length of time without perspiring excessively. Duct tape wraps will maintain much of their shape, and a first-time wrapee often finds it interesting and amusing to look at the “cocoon” that’s left behind.

Unless you’re a perfectionist, the inner layer of a plastic wrap will be wrinkled. If your partner has been wrapped for a while, you’ll find that he or she maintains much of the texture of the wrap! A freshly-extracted mummification subject may have skin that looks something like that of a lizard; it’s a surprising and strangely attractive result that quickly fades. (Elastic bandage mummification, on the other hand, will leave the texture of the bandage as well as the spirals from the wrap.)

You’ve just extracted someone from possibly non-breathing material… someone you may have been keeping very much “fired up.” That probably means they are going to get very cold, very quickly. Have a nice robe or some thick terrycloth towels handy. Don’t count on being able to walk your partner quickly to a warmer part of the house; depending on how long and tightly one is wrapped – or how deeply they went into subspace – it may not be possible for them to move very far or very quickly for a while.

Move your partner to the couch and sit with him or her, quietly talking about the experience and helping with the “return to Earth.” Especially for a first-timer, it can be unwise to try to continue any sort of role playing. Drop the Big Bad Dom/me attitude for a while, and be there for your partner. More often than not it will be greatly appreciated.

At this point (after article 1, article 2, article 3) you have a basic understanding of mummification. The last step, most important – Mummification Safety – coming in the next article soon.

Begin by deciding where you’ll create your mummy. A “dungeon” is a natural choice, but so is a bedroom: you can stretch your completed mummy out on the bed and even join him or her for a little intimate fun. Just remember that, once your mummy’s completed (or nearly so), if it’s going to move anywhere you’ll have to transport it… so choose carefully.

Once you’ve decided where you’ll be working, gather what you’ll need. For plastic wraps, you’ll of course need one or more rolls of plastic wrap. How many will depend on the length and width of the roll, as well as the size of the person you’re wrapping. You can do several mummifications with a single roll of pallet wrap, but it might take a couple of rolls of plastic kitchen wrap to get through one session. For duct tape wraps, how much you’ll need again depends on the length of the roll and the size of the subject. You’ll generally use about one and a half average-sized rolls of duct tape. In addition to whatever you’re wrapping with, you’ll need a couple of washcloths or other padding. If you’d like to engage in a little nipple play after your mummy is completed, add a couple of cotton balls and a paper clip… And don’t forget your bandage scissors!

Of course there’s one more thing you’ll need and that’s your volunteer, who also needs to prepare. A mummification scene can easily take 30 minutes to several hours. Unless you want your mummy to suffer, a quick trip to the bathroom before starting is highly advisable!

We’ll start with the chest and shoulders, mostly because the shoulders, neck, and head are the trickiest areas to wrap. Begin with one or two wraps around the chest, just below the armpits. This gives the shoulder plastic something to cling to, and makes your job easier. If you have those cotton balls handy, center one over each nipple as you begin your wrapping, so they’ll be pinned against the skin. Next, wrap over each shoulder. You can do this with one long piece or – if it’s easier for you – cut several pieces of plastic. Work along each shoulder until it’s smoothly covered.

If you’re going to wrap the head you can work up the neck now, or tackle this any time before you lay your mummy down. It’s easiest to use narrower plastic for the head. Try not to put too many layers or too much pressure against the neck, jaw, eyes, or nose… and, of course, leave plenty of space for breathing! You can place a layer of plastic and cut out breathing holes as you do so; this avoids the need for “precision” wrapping.

Once you’ve got the shoulders (and possibly neck and head) wrapped, return to the chest and wrap downward to the hips. A strip or two of narrow plastic through the crotch should be used to close this area off. Wrapping one leg is all it takes, or you can in fact just run a sheet of plastic between the mummy’s legs. If you’re a fanatic about being symmetrical, you’ll want to wrap both legs. For each leg, run the plastic down the top of the foot, across the toes, and up the sole of the foot. For wide plastic you can just fold the resulting “tabs” over; otherwise, make a quarter turn and wrap the foot, then wrap up the leg to crotch level.

If you want a bit more of the bondage aspect, wrap the arms as well; when your mummy’s wrapped arms are pressed against his or her plastic-covered body the two layers will adhere, locking the arms in place. To wrap an arm, fold the plastic over the hand, do a quarter-turn, and begin spiraling up to the armpit.

As you’re doing all this wrapping, be aware that plastic wrap has a tendency to “roll” at the edges, especially when going around curves (e.g., under armpits) or when it’s under a lot of tension. To avoid this, try not to put any tension on the first layer of plastic. When you go back with another layer, you can pull a bit more, since the plastic will tend to adhere to the layer underneath.

Once an edge begins to roll it will tend to continue, building up a ridge that is under a lot of pressure and can really dig into your play partner. Keep an eye out for these; if one occurs, make sure it’s not causing discomfort for the mummy. You can usually just cut through the rolled edge and relieve enough pressure to alleviate problems; worst case, you may want to trim along the edge of the plastic, cutting the roll off completely.

This brings up an important point: don’t be afraid to modify your work as you go. If you get carried away and put too many layers over the chest and your partner is having problems breathing, don’t hesitate to cut through most or all of those layers to relieve the pressure. The safety and comfort of your subject far outweighs the cost of some plastic wrap and the time it takes to apply it! And you don’t have to rip it all off and start over; once you’ve cut through enough plastic to alleviate the problem, just go over that area with a wrap or two and your mummy will be as good as new.

At this point you have a partner who is completely covered in plastic wrap (assuming you covered both arms and both legs). Now you’re ready for the first over-wrap. Position your mummy’s arms and hands wherever you’d like. Fingertips at the crotch give the submissive an opportunity for some genital manipulation; arms crossed “Egyptian” or straitjacket-style will feel more like bondage. (Watch out for uncomfortable creases inside the elbows if you go “Egyptian.”) For women especially, be cautious of arms at the side, since their narrower waists won’t support the arms and could result in excessive pressure on the elbows if you wrap too tightly. Beginning just below the shoulders, wrap down to mid-thigh, pinning the arms to the body. If you wrapped the arms separately, they should now be firmly held in place.

At this point, if you are working alone, you’ll help your mummy into a reclining position. Then, lift the legs and begin wrapping them together. Insert a folded washcloth or other padding between the knees and the ankles and then wrap the legs together, from the thighs down to the feet.

At this point you have a completed plastic-wrap mummy. Don’t be disappointed if your first attempt is a bit “rough” looking; it does take some practice! If you’re going on to do a tape overwrap – which I’ll be showing you in the next installment – the appearance of the plastic layer isn’t important. But sometimes plastic by itself can be very attractive.

Now, one last thing. Bend out the paper clip and use the end to gently pick open the plastic above the cotton balls, widening the holes as necessary. Pull out and discard the cotton balls, and you have access to your mummy’s nipples for whatever pleasures or torments might occur to you!

To be continued…

Male genital torment, or CBT; cock and ball torture. Male genitals come in such a great variety of shapes and sizes. Each male responds differently to stimulation. I have found a few techniques that are suitable for most any male. I will be going into these and addressing more advanced types of CBT in a future issue.

Most men experience limited stimulation or repetitive stimulation and may find these techniques helpful in creating a more vivid sexual life. My man appreciates it when I bind him to the bed with his legs spread wide and his cock and balls exposed. I like to sit between his legs with my toys within reach. I use both hands to caress him all over his crotch. If you are not partnered, I suggest using latex gloves. I want him to feel relaxed and secure. It is important to communicate with him on what is working and what is not. I stimulate all the areas around his genitals with my hands, purposefully not touching his cock. I enjoy using a light feathery touch to start and build pressure up slowly. The hair is also receptive to stimulation. Stroke it, comb it with your fingers, tug on it. I will stroke his balls and capture them with my fingers at the base of his balls. Then I can stretch and pull them gently, slowly building the pressure. I let my fingertips glide over his captured balls, feeling the skin of his scrotum stretched over his balls. Remember what you hold in your hands and remember that he trusts you. Even though this may be a CBT scene feel free to touch other parts of his body. Tit play fits in nicely with CBT so give his nipples some attention when you play with him.

CBT Gallery 1

CBT Gallery 2

CBT Gallery 3

After a nice relaxing warm up I begin with a 10′ length of parachute cord. Home Depot carries this inexpensive toy. I double the rope and wrap that once around the entire package. Firmly tie this in a simple square knot leaving about 4-6 inches length in the closed end of the loop at the top of his cock. Using your imagination, you can then wrap the two long ends of the rope to secure his cock and balls in a configuration of your choosing. How tight or loose depends on your partner.

Now this cock and balls in bondage are firmly in place for play.

At this point you and your partner may not want to get into any heavier play. If it looks good to kiss and suck then go for it! It will be extra fantastic for him. You can even devise his bondage so that it allows for you to mount him.

If you want to continue his torment, I suggest carefully placed clothespins or clamps on any loose skin you can pinch. You can leave these on and play with them or just leave them on to increase the sensations when you finally take them off. Remember the longer you leave them on the more they hurt when you remove them. You can also try small whips or lengths of rope to whip his cock and balls. Always begin with a light hand. You don’t want to go banging away at his most delicate parts. Also include stroking and squeezing throughout your play.

Watch this CBT video on our BDSM Tube

Another way to torment him is with hot wax. Using white, unscented candles drip hot wax from an elevation high enough to allow some cooling of the wax as it drops down and onto his flesh. Lower the flame as his tolerance increases. Don’t ever put the flame near the skin. You don’t want to burn him.

Removing dried bits of wax can be a torment in itself. If he is hairy, you will have a much bigger job. A shaved boy is much easier to wax.

These are just a few of the milder types of torment you can apply to your partner. Using found items around your home, you can create many varied sensations to his cock and balls.

Boys like to be stroked, not just stroked off. If you have an open minded, imaginative, communicative partner, you are sure to have fun. Besides, that’s the whole pointim. If it’s not fun then you aren’t doing it right!

Mistress Cathryn

Canes are stiff, yet flexible, regarded by most, and encouraged by writings of the Victoriana School Days of Boys and Girls, as tools for corporal punishment, which of course is true. However their other uses are often over shadowed by the impressions one has of them in one’s mind’s eye. In the right hands they can be sensual and in the wrong hands a nightmare. Caning, sometimes referred to as: the English, the English Method, English Discipline, or English Style, is an art form which takes practise. A lot of practise. An exercise in control not easily attained. It is a serious play implement, it is capable of causing serious damage and is not for use by someone who has read five web sites and hit a pillow a dozen times. It demands a level of concentration above that expected for other forms of BDSM play. If you seriously wish to pursue this as a form of play take the time to seek instruction from an expert. It is not something we would undertake in a crowded or small play space as a back strike could do as much damage to an onlooker as a forward stroke could do to the party being caned. One has to be extremely aware of all the safety measures, strike areas, density, resilience, length and diameters of the implements as they all account for a different effect. No two rattan canes behave in the same way and should be treated individually.

Canes can be made of many materials, most commonly rattan, more modernly, Delrin, Lexan, and fibreglass rod, polycarbonate and carbon fibre. (Acrylic is not really strong enough and not recommended for use as it tends to break.) If you do prepare a synthetic cane for use make sure you round and smooth the tip. The synthetic forms are more readily purchased, they are smooth, easily maintained, usually of a like performance if one

Natural Rattan Cane

Selection, Preparation, Maintenance

When selecting a cane make sure it has flexibility, bend it quite significantly and watch to see if it springs back into its original shape. Check for any flaws, nicks, cracks, bruises on the surface. Being experienced in French Polishing it is great to give your canes at least 12 layers of white shellac which is then rubbed back with dry 0000 steel wool and coated liberally with a good quality wax. You can use a brand called Liberon it dries to a hard shiney surface. Just rub it on and leave it over night to harden and rub it off in the morning with an open weave polishing cloth. Don’t use beeswax, it is rubbish, leaves a sticky, easily marked surface and never sets. If you are not capable of using shellac then three to four coats of vanish with a fine haired paint brush and a waxing will pretty much give you the same effect. This protects the surface and allows cleansing after use. Some people use polyurethane but it doesn’t have a natural look to me and unless applied properly it tends to flake off rattan.

The intense impact cane. The cane has a firm grip handle and a leather wrist strap for an easy grip. Whip the cane through the air and onto their skin and watch them wiggle and squirm

The length of the cane governs the strike capacity. A longer cane (for the experienced only) delivering the greater strike power. With a thicker cane one gets more impact or thud and of course a wider more controlled strike. A thinner version – more sting, they may (in inexperienced hands) cut, especially if welts are crossed, much more control is needed. The rule simply being: small diameter – sharp stingy pain. Larger diameter – thud (dull pain because of the deeper tissue penetration). Probably doesn’t need to be said however, with a cane, as with a flogger – though the depth varies considerably between the two, you are penetrating tissue and creating trauma – welts and bruises are damaged skin tissue.

Lengths vary with intended use, for example a Dominant female using it on genitals and testicles would find and 18″ length suitable, as it would allow her to get into those tight areas that need attention. The typical lengths seem to be 2′(60cm), 3′ (80-90cm), up to say

Lexan cane with aluminum handle

Canes should be maintained regularly, a dry heated environment will age the cane, after all it comes from a tropical humid climate, so store it in a dry cool place away from direct sun and heat, hanging if possible to keep it straight. Once a year or when required sand the tip back to raw fibre and stand the cane in a small bowl of water overnight. Much the same as flowers cane will draw the water up into the fibre core. Recoat the tip with whatever method you used previously and rewax.

Assume the Position

Each recipient has a favoured position but whatever that may be it should be one of least distraction, well supported where there is no concentration required for the maintaining of the position. Being bent over a piece of solid furniture or a rail or support bench specifically constructed for the purpose is probably the best suggestion. A semi-circular padded spanking bench is ideal, as is the end of a sturdy table or desk. A low

Stainless steel cane

Technique

Caning has absolutely nothing to do with how hard one can strike. It has to do with timing, rhythm and building to a desired end result. With caning, unlike flogging or other flagellation forms, contact with the flesh takes time to register. Canes are deep tissue implements. It takes time for the throb to manifest and rise through the tissue. Nerve ends compress and expand. One must take the time to allow that process to take place. So it is pointless striking quickly with power. Why end a rising pleasure when the peak has not be reached. Rolling of the cane over the area just struck, pressing it into the welt, whispering in an ear of what is still to come, caressing the rising welt with the open palm, brushing the labia, running a nail casually down the back. Lots of ways to fill in time between strokes if that is your fancy. Or simply press the cane into the buttocks after the previous stroke indicating that this is where the next stroke will land. Thus adding once more anticipation.

“Even though it’s a harder pain… it’s a slower pain. It takes time to travel… and seems to emanate out from where it connects. The feeling of his hands on my skin where i’ve been hit… is electrifying. It’s like a millions bolts of pleasure that spread right through me.”
(Anon sub)

The actual ‘target area’, which you are going to cane, is usually the fleshy part of the buttocks, the highest strike area being just below the cleft of the buttocks and the lowest the crease where the buttocks meet the legs. Depending on the assumed position be very aware of the tail bone. If you run your fingers slowly down the spine you may be surprized at just how far it goes into the crack of their buttocks. If you cane casually probably a good idea to check this each time. Striking the tail bone can have dire effects and cause permanent injury. This is why many who cane prefer the submissive/bottom to actually lie flat on the floor, bed or bench. In that position the tail bone is afforded the greatest protection as well as minimising the concentration required from the submissive/bottom in holding a position. Of course you are not just limited to this “target area” but is it generally regarded as the caning area of the body. See below for further target areas. For some of these areas you would have to use a lightweight cane with either a slow or rapid tapping action (wrist only).

Preparation of the target area is much the same in caning as it is for all flagellation forms. The skin needs to be warmed up. This can be achieved with a light drumming effect of the area with no force behind the strikes. Sometimes a spanking warm up achieves this best and it is after all a nice combination. Make sure the play area is warm. When the skin gets that lovely healthy rosey complexion and the skin is warm to touch you are in a position to start actual cane play. The submissive/bottom should be deeply relaxed, a massage prior to play is always recommended. Take the time to warm up your body as well before play. Drawing your arm across in front of your throat and capturing it with the other arm bend upward at the elbow. By applying gentle pressure you stretch all the muscles through the shoulder into the back. Flying rotations of the arms in circular motions forward and back are also good loosening exercises. Take the time to roll your head in a circle chin forward to your so it brushes your chest and head back as far as you can towards your back. This is gentle exercise. Shake out the hands and fingers which will warm the joints and loosen the forearm, wrist and upper arm. If you find your wrist is weak purchase a squash ball and squeeze it as an exercise. This well develop the wrist and forearm muscles and can be done anyway, anytime. Always nice to cut the air with a cane as a practise and loosening up exercise, also helps to get a feel for an individual implement. Nothing like the sound of cane cutting the air to built a sense of anticipation, a greater psychological effect on the positioned submissive. Having said that once the caning session starts the submissive/bottom should trust and not anticipate the next stroke, rather, accept the inevitability of there being one and concentrate of their deep breathing instead.

You will find there are two basic techniques used for caning, the ‘wrist only method’ and the ‘arm, wrist and shoulder method’. The wrist movement entails only the movement of the wrist and a portion of the lower arm. If you were to view the actual movement involved it would be between two and three inches only at the axis (the point at which the cane is enclosed by the hand) the elbow is tucked against the body and the power is generated by movement in the lower arm only using rapid wrist movement to flick the cane at the target area. The flexibility of the cane can used to some advantage here and takes some control on the part of the user but over all you have a greater degree of accuracy using this method. This is often referred to as tattooing. You won’t be able to get any real power behind the blows but you can build to a constant level varying speeds as you go. Most submissive find tattooing sensual and it prepares the target area for what is to come.

The ‘wrist, arm and shoulder method’ requires the arm to move away from the body and the shoulder to be placed behind the power of the stroke finishing with a wrist movement to control the strike pushing the cane into the target area. This method requires a greater degree of accuracy and therefore a great deal of practise beforehand. The swing can either be in a horizontal or vertical arc. To gain the accuracy required try holding the can further in from the end, thus shortening it, as your confidence grows move the hand back gradually to the end of the cane. This is in effect shortening and gradually lengthing the stroke of the cane. Using this method you can either – follow through the stroke – holding it can as it strikes firmly into the flesh of the buttocks for a greater degree of pain – or allow the cane to bounce back and lift away from the buttocks for a lighter blow. With either is is wise to allow the pain to rise to the surface, so to speak, timing your strokes to gain the maximum effect.

“The time he caned me while i sucked his cock was just so overwhelmingly erotic for me… being able to feel his arousal and feed off it… and the more aroused i became… the more aroused he became… and the sensations of the cane became a biting, stinging, warm and pleasurable feeling. I don’t know when enough is enough with the cane. The more aroused i become… the more i want. The fact that it may be causing damage is totally irrelevant to me at that point… i have no judgment. It’s a feeling of wanting to feel it harder and harder… to the point where i feel like i’d just burst forth in orgasmic ecstacy.”
(Anon sub)

We have already touched on positioning above. The correct position allows an even strike. The last thing you want is one cheek to receive the full force and the other cheek to receive the tip only. This disturbs the pattern of the recipients head process. Often drawing them back rather than taking then deeper into subspace. The assumed position should be one where the cane travels in a horizontal plane or as close to that as one can get, at a height that doesn’t make the discipliner dip below or above an axis point just above his hip. In other words the cane travels in an arc from that point. Be aware that as in flogging you can get cane wrap you will be surprised at just how much flexibility some canes have. The tip of the cane should be kept in the middle of the furthest cheek from the practioner’s position. Once confidence has been gained, and you haven’t done any serious damage to the recipent move the tip further out so that is it about one inch from the side of the buttock furtherest from you. That way you avoid wrap which will surely happen if the tip extends past the buttock. Try some trial strokes first and question as to evenness. You only learn by asking. If you adjust your stance you can change the strike zone. In other words left to right, forward and back.

Don’t deliver the stroke to exactly the same spot each time. This is a recipe for disaster and severe trauma and bruising. Work the whole area evenly from top to bottom. An even succession of cane stripes down the buttocks is the goal with a gap of about one inch between. Don’t start where you wish to finish as regards power of stroke, like anything you build to a climax. Just try initially for the pattern this can be attained with even light strokes. Feet and body positioning is the secret to success, if you stand to far forward or to far back from the target area the strike will be uneven, meaning one cheek is going to get more impact than the other. Use the stroke marks left to determine whether in fact your positioning is incorrect. The perfect stroke should be parallel to the buttocks just before it lands that way each cheek gets an equal impact.

If you are worried about causing severe trauma, cane the recepient whilst they are wearing thick clothing, perhaps have them wear several layers of underwear. Good time for some ‘cotton tail’ training, or even nappy training. The use of a folded wet towel over the buttocks is yet another method of cutting down the possibility of trauma and if you use a red food colouring agent on the cane you can clearly see the results of your stroke on the towel.

The forehand and backhand action in tennis is very close to the method you use without the arm extension involved in tennis. The cane is driven by the forearm and wrist, though the shoulder muscles also come into play. It is a nice clean action where the upper arm doesn’t in fact move any distance from the body. The hip and waist stays in position and the upper body twists as the strike is delivered. A good exercise for this is to extend your arms and cut the air rotating from the waist up feet planted firmly. The same as in all things there is no right or wrong way, the way that works best your you is the right way.

There a definite rhythm for each type of cane and with that comes the rhythm between strokes because each has a totally different effect. With a short cane, it is almost totally wrist only driven and because it doesn’t have to travel a great distance accuracy can be easily achieved with practise. This is a rapid delivery implement. Patterns of 3 to 5 with the 6th just slightly harder then perhaps a pattern of 5 soft then a pattern of 3 with 3 hard. You make the rhythm up that suits you. But allow the pain to rise.

Formal caning with a larger cane adopt the 6 pattern method. Six delivered with a 5-10 second gap between each, then a gap of say 30 seconds to let that pattern rise, then repeat. Of course you could if you wish simply have a strike rate without pattern, single blows. There are heaps of variations you can let the cane bounce up instead of digging in – where you purposely hold the cane to the skin after striking and delay the second stage of pain – and then follow through with another quick stroke. Then settle back to a slower rhythm. Totally up to you. With the cane you only have to screw up once, people don’t come running back for more.

Once you become proficient with the implement perhaps try for ‘The Gate’ this is where you apply five evenly spaced strokes down the buttocks and the sixth stroke is delivered at a 45 degree angle diagonally across the five previous strokes. This last stroke forms “The Gate” pattern by linking the other five. Just be aware that cutting across other welts you can open the skin and cause severe bleeding in some cases. Of course this is exactly the desired effect for some thus making the last stroke the hardest of them all opening up the other five welts.

As a testament to control the Chinese developed whipping by bamboo to a fine art. As an alternative to the soles of the feet, favoured elsewhere, the bare buttocks were the target for incessant, featherlight blows. The same devastating effect as that of the bastinado being produced within a matter of minutes. During the Manchu dynasty victims were flogged by ‘lictors’ wielding long thin canes. So adept were they that they could strike hundreds of times without lacerating the flesh, or draw blood with three blows. Such expertise was achieved only by constant practise on a block of bean curd, a substance resembling thick custard. Perfection was not reached until they were able to strike repeatedly without breaking the surface.

Extra Pain – needle play torture website

There are many ways you could break down these forms, below breathplay is devided into three categories.

- Compression of the carotid arteries

- Compression of the trachea or wind pipe

These two are often combined, for example when trying to stop bloodflow in the carotid arteries you may be applying pressure to the trachea.

Throttling with the hands and strangling with a rope share the same risks however when using the hands pressure can be controlled more easily. A hanging scene is more dangerous again with the subs body weight applying the pressure to the neck, tip toes will work as well as being off the ground. First the sub needs to be firmly on the ground then the rope removed. You cannot trust that you will be able to remove the rope with your hands. Always have EMT scissors ready. Never drop a sub into hanging as this could damage the spinal cord.

If the purpose is to reach unconciousness a stranglehold is very effective and can achieve this in roughly three seconds. This is much more comfortable for the sub.

- Other play that restricts airflow

Hand over mouth – putting your hand over a partners mouth during sex is probably the most common form of breathplay. The hand can form a tight seal with the option of blocking the nose to increase the intensity. This is a good place to start for beginners to breathplay especially in the missionary position where the Top can watch the bottoms reactions.

Bagging – many plastic bags have holes in them to prevent children suffocating once you have found a bag without these holes you can begin bagging. Thinner bags can be used but it is possible for the sub or Dom/me to rip through them with hands or teeth. This may be preferable if you are trying it for the first time for a sense of security. A thick bag is difficult to rip through as the plastic thins and stretches before it tears. A pair of EMT scissors should be on stand by especially if you have taped the bag. Choosing a clear bag is important as it allows you to watch the sub’s reactions. If they insist on darkness a blindfold can be added under the bag.

When bagging you do not need to tape the bag. Some feel that taping the bag adds an inescapable element to the session making the experience more authentic however the dom/me can tighten the bag around the neck with the hands which still restricts the air but has the bonus of being able to remove the bag much faster without removing the tape.

It is important to remember that if the sub panics and thrases around it will be more difficult to remove the bag. Another important point is that the sub may suck the plastic into their mouth, this can cause panic as the bag has blocked the airway.

Rebreathing – is breathing the air from the breath you have just expelled. The oxygen in the air diminishes with each recycled breath. Rebreathers are used in vanilla applications such as diving, these are unsuitable for breathplay as they add oxygen at intervals to replace what is lost. BDSM rebreathers can be purchased online they are masks with a bag that inflates and deflates as you breathe. The Dom/me can squeeze air out of the bag or hold it to stop it refilling to control the play.

Dunking – holding someone underwater immediately stops them breathing in. The experience is very disorientating with the obvious risk of drowning. It is very difficult to guage a sub’s reactions and you certainly could not rely on bubbles in the water as an indicator of what is going on.

Shared breathing – when a couple exchange breaths so that the first breath of air is passed between them. This can be done mouth to mouth for a very intimate scene or by connecting gas masks with the right tubing and connectors. The principle is the same as rebreathing where the oxygen is diminished when recycling the air.

Suffocation – forcing someone’s face into a pillow is a form of suffocation and is often done during rough sex. Putting a pillow over someone’s face is a very different feeling, it is altogether more claustrophobic. Facesitting can also be used to suffocate, the male equivalent being gagging on cock while the nose is pinched.

Holding your breath is the safest form of breathplay as the body will breathe automatically should you pass out. You must still guard against falling.

It is possible to tightlace a corset to induce fainting. The corset would need to be steel boned for this and will incumber breathing with even a small waist reduction. Your partner will need to be proficient in lacing a corset in order to undo it quickly enough, failing that the laces would need to be cut to release you.

Whatever form of breathplay you practice the following tips will help you make your play safer:

Keep eye contact, total enclosure masks and blindfolds are much loved by subs but eye contact is the easiest way to tell where your sub is. Drooping eyelids as if falling asleep tell you they are nearing unconciousness, you may want to try to keep them in this stage. Suddenly wide eyes are a sign they are about to black out if you do not want them unconcious restore air now. If there eyes close after this assume they are out and restore air. If the sub didnt reach unconciousness they will still experience a buzz from being so close.

As you cannot use a safeword you can get the sub to tap out when uncomfortable, using a safe gesture is not advisable as the sub may not be able to think straight. If in bondage have them hold an object; when they are passing out their grip will loosen and the object will fall.

Make the space safe by moving objects out of the way and have a cushion ready for the sub’s head if they want to lie down afterwards. To avoid the sub falling, play on a chair or better yet the floor. This is especially important if you cannot easily support the sub’s weight. The sub may fall even if they are not losing conciousness.

How does breathplay feel?

For the Top breathplay is a huge responsibility as you literally have a life in your hands, a balance needs to be striked where this is kept in the back of your mind without ruining the scene. Similarly for bottoms who are trusting you with their safety they must be aware of the risks without the fear of what could go wrong spoiling the fun.

Methods such as rebreathing feel slower and relaxing for both parties. The sub may space quickly and feel as if they are drugged or in a trance, slipping slowly into unconciousness.

Methods such as strangulation feel like a short rush, they are very intense for both parties. It feels more aggressive and really plays on physical strength of the d/s dynamic. The sub struggles feeling the tightness around the neck, the blood pounding in the head, they still cant breathe and their struggles are futile, then the realisation that they are passing out. The Dom/me puts the pressure on and there is a satisfaction in that. They watch the sub struggling, the struggling becomes weaker and the eyes widen as they realise they’re about to knock out.

Coming to is a confusing time, this is also true for regaining from the brink of unconciousness. The dom/domme needs to reassure the sub as for a moment they may not be aware of where they are. Note that waking in bondage can add stress to this confusion.

How safe is breathplay?

This question is highly debatable and is too big to be discussed here. The writing of Jay Wiseman on the topic is prevalent on the web but there are many others who would counter his view so read widely.

It is certainly safer to play with a partner as a lone player cannot remove a bag or rope if they pass out. Learning basic CPR would obviously be beneficial but this is not to be considered a safety net.

The risks of breathplay are:

Ruptured or inflamed trachea

Laryngitis

Fracture of the larynx

Damage to bloodvessels

Stroke

Spinal damage

Seizures

Cardiac arrest

Death

Strangling and hanging carry more of these risks than some other methods such as rebreathing. This is because of the pressure put on either the trachea, carotid arteries or both. This is not a definitive list however from it we can see that those who are prone to seizures, at risk of heart attacks and other vulnerable groups such as pregnant women should not practice breathplay.

Copyright © Sky Gazzard

The following missive dedicated to use of stinging nettle in CBT is based on experience. It is clearly not suitable for any one allergic to stinging nettles. Arm yourself with a pair of thick gloves.

Cut down a good quantity of fresh nettles. The best ones are young with pliable stems. A shopping bag full is about fine.

Take a nettle and brush it against the head of your penis. If you haven’t got an erection so far, this should bring one on. It doesn’t hurt much, the sensation is rather good in fact.

Brush some more nettles against your penis, the shaft as well. Gradually a rash will appear and little bumps. Keep going. The more you do, the greater the numbing effect so the next bit will be easier.

Take a handfull of nettles and crush them hard onto your penis. This may hurt, but rub them in well. You can also take a nettle stalk (which is also covered in stingers) and wrap it around the shaft or behind the head. This is a good way of getting the poison in.

Keep going with more nettles. As the poison gets in, the small bumps will join up. This is the desired effect. As you keep on, the bumps turn into a large all over swelling. The more you do, the greater the swelling until your penis will be stretched real tight, bursting against its skin. An increase of about 50% in girth over a normal erection.

To see full gallery with CBT by nettle play – click here >

The sensation is now between pain and pleasure. The nettles hurt, but the penis becomes super sensitive. As you go on the sensitivity will increase.

Eventually you will reach the point where the sensitivity takes over from the pain. Now your penis will start throbbing, but each throb will bring you closer and closer to orgasm. You can try to resist it, but it can be hard because chances are you will come without even touching your penis, the throbbing doing the job for you. The orgasm is intense – as much pain as pleasure.

After orgasm you may remain quite erect, and a second spontanious orgasm is possible within a very short time. When finally flaccid, the penis will retain its girth but shorten, creating a massive, heavy weight swinging between your legs. The sensation will have gone, leaving your penis very numb to the touch. A really wierd feeling.

Gradually – very gradually, the swelling will go down, but a huge lump may hang below the frenum for some time – a day or more. Now the skin has been so stretched it is very sore, and the sensation may make sleep difficult. Over the next few days the skin may start to peel off in a thin layer, leaving a new layer of soft skin underneath.

Whether there is any permanent increase in size we couldn’t say, but we guess the effect should be the same as a pump, if from the inside rather than the out.

Rubbing the stinging nettles into the scrotum and the anus can produce a good feel, but there is no swelling in the same way as the penis. You can also try filling your pants with nettles and taking a train ride. To do this, wear two pairs of pants, slip penis and scrotum through the fly of the first, and wrap over them a plastic bag full of nettles tied on loose with a rubber band. Try keeping a straight face as you walk, jog, cycle or ride a bumpy train.

Wax play is a form of sensual play involving warm or hot wax usually dripped from candles or ladled onto a person’s naked skin. Hot wax in sex play is used to increase adrenalin and thus arousal. It is a very distinctive and unique sensation. Very intense, but concentrated in a very small area. Hot wax applied improperly is dangerous. Using the wrong melting point wax and/or not checking temperature of the molten wax can result in up to third degree burns, requiring immediate attention by a physician.

The first and most apparent danger with hot wax play is burns. Candle wax for BDSM play should not cause burns. The exact temperature of a candle flames depends on the material being burned. Different waxes will have different flame temperatures. On average, the maximum flame temperature will be about 2550 deg F. The degree of heat of the dripping wax varies depending on the materials from which the candle is constructed.

There are many different types of candles available. Use plain 100% paraffin candles, these burn at a safer temperature for hot wax play. Beeswax is the hottest. Avoid beeswax candles. Beeswax burns at a much higher temperature than plain paraffin candles and can cause burns. The melting point is much higher than human skin can comfortably deal with. Some experienced players do use this type of candle. It can cause second or third degree burns. Avoid beef tallow candles. Wax made from animal fat can be extremely hot and cause burning. Avoid candles with metallic colors. These often contain poisonous metalic salts. Avoid candles with metal wicks, metal wick can drip hot molten metal on the submissive. Avoid scented candles. Scented candles burn at a higher temperature and may cause scalding. Perfumes, hardeners, and other additives can, and have, caused serious allergic reactions.

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So paraffin is the best type of wax. Paraffin waxes are very stable. They do not chemically react with either concentrated alkalines or acids. Straight unadulterated paraffin wax is unlikely to cause any sort of reaction. However unless you make your own candles you probably won’t be able to get pure old paraffin wax. The plain white candles are probably the most trustworthy. They are usually relatively pure, cheap and utilitarian. They usually don’t have the hardeners which make the melting temperature shoot up.

Color does affect the temperature at which candles melt. Darker colors also mean more additives. Red candles tend to drip hotter than black or white. Additives do make a difference, but the ones to watch out for are hardeners such as those used in dripless candles. These are generally various sorts of oil-soluble dyes and, for some, can be a skin irritant. Some of these dyes can also stain both skin and clothing. It is best to start off with wax that has no added colors.

A good candy thermometer is required to determine the temperature of the melted wax. Some temperatures at which wax become liquid (melt):
Raw paraffin (soft): 115°-126°F
Votive candles (harder): 131°-141°F
Taper-type candles (hard): 141°F or higher
Hurricane lamp candles (hard): 154°F or higher
Beeswax (waxy to hard): 146°F or higher

If you spill hot water at temperatures above 140°F on yourself, you will likely get a burn. However, scalding water doesn’t stick to the skin, hot wax does. Wax also retains heat, so 140°F and hotter wax is very likely going to create an even nastier burn than water at the same temperature. As a general rule, the wax temperature at skin contact should never be above about 135°F. The ideal working temperature at skin contact is generally around 120°-125°F.

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The best way to see how a candle feels is to test it out on yourself. The temperature of wax can be tested on the inside of your wrist. Use the sensitive skin on your wrist or elbow to get a feel for how hot this candle is. Never use hot wax on a submissive that you haven’t tested the temperature on your own body first. Make sure your submissive is not wearing any oil basic lotions / perfume.

It is easiest to have the bottom horizontal, although vertical is possible. Put a drop cloth or towel under him to catch the wax during dripping and especially during removal. Place and light some candles along his body if you wish. Wax play may be combined with other BDSM or sexual activity. Many people find that being tied and blindfolded during wax play heightens the sensations, not knowing where the next drop will fall, and being unable to move away from it can add a great deal to the erotic sensations.

The temperature of the wax hitting the submissive is regulated by the distance the candle is held above the submissive. The temperature becomes cooler in proportion to its height. To start out, hold the candle high over the body, 2-3ft, the higher the better, because the further the distance a drop of hot wax travels, the cooler it will be, and the faster it will chill and become room temperature (solid) when it hits the body. You can adjust the temperature of the wax by increasing or decreasing the distance between the candle and the skin. Watch the bottom, not the candle. Drop a few drops and carefully note your partner’s reaction. People have a tendency to stop when that first drop hits. Don’t. Go for a steady series of drops. If you stop and too much liquid wax builds up near the flame, you could tip that off into a tissue (unless the bottom would appreciate receiving it at that point in the scene). Then you can get closer, to see what works best for you victim.

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Drip little bits of wax at varying heights and areas of the body to help the submissive get into headspace and to help build up a tolerance. Go for a steady series of drops. Rotate the candles around while dripping so it burns evenly or a smooth pour from the larger candles. Gradually lower the candle to see the effect. Constantly, drip the wax at various heights and different areas. Different areas of the body may not be able to tolerate as much as other areas i.e. private sensitive areas. Make various designs. You can create beautiful artwork, using a naked body as the canvas. Use your imagination. But remember pooling is bad, so if you have a pool of wax, dump if off on the ground, or blow out the candle, let it cool off, and re-light it. Also remember that if you drop wax on top of wax, it will hold the heat in and possibly cause burns, so be careful when you layer.

For females, the breasts, nipples and vagina can be very erotic. For males, the thighs, cock and balls are especially sensitive. You can make a “penis mold” by totally coating the area. Some of the most sensitive areas on both sexes are the inner thighs, the area of the belly that joins the hip, the nipples, and the genitals. It would be better to begin in a less sensitive area, moving to an occasionally drop on a highly sensitive one. Don’t use hot wax on the head and face.

Jar candles are nice you can get a lot of wax in a little time. You can pour it on slowly or cover them with a large amount at one time. BDSM waxplay jar candles does not stick to hair, so this is good for hairy male submissive or female that does not shave down below. You can use all types of fun stuff to get the wax on the submissive from a coffee cup, turkey baster, spoon, paint brush (don’t use anything that you will want to use later ) also you can pour it into cup.

Perfect candles

Guide to wax play

Japanese drip candles

Ice and/or cold water should be kept on hand for accidents or simply to alternate the sensations. If you combine wax play with ice play, you can give them the feeling that their skin is being burned off without getting them more than pink. You should also keep very cold water or ice and burn ointment nearby in the event of an accidental burn.

Removing the wax can be just as erotic and full of sensation as the actual waxing. This can also be a very fun part of the scene. As it pulls away from the skin, the sensation is again intense, and running a feather or fingernails or even a tongue over this sensitized skin is a very sexy way to prolong the waxing session. It is easiest to use a comb held sideways to scrape off the wax. Beat it off, if you going to do a flogging after a waxing, you will beat most of it off. After removing the majority of the wax, try using a knife to scrape the wax off or rubbing with baby oil. Do not use a sharp knife to do this. The skin is very sensitive once the wax is removed. There will be reddening of the skin but this should clear up in a few hours at the most.

Some people advocate oiling the skin before you drop the wax. This will make the cleanup much easier, as the wax does not adhere, but you must remember the oil will make the wax seem a bit hotter.

Avoid recycling the wax used on the genital area as you cannot sterilize the wax short of heating it to temperatures that will cause the wax to begin to smoke and possibly ignite.

Missive by J & e (BDSM 24/7).

Big disclaimer: The following is based on our experience only. Neither of us claim any special expertise or knowledge.

Breast pumping and labia pumping are not painful. After the cylinder has been removed pumping is not generally physically intense for the person who has been pumped. And, the sensation is much more subtle than it looks. However to the touch or tongue it feels fantastic.

When e is pumped and the vacuum is strong an intensity can build. However, it is not so much painful as uncomfortable. The only time e finds it as intense or painful is at the beginning if pumped too fast or when, after a long while of being held under vacuum, there builds a soreness and discomfort, which is almost immediately relieved upon release of vacuum and removal of the cylinder.

It is important to not over pump initially, because the full effects of the pumping is not felt immediately. There is a delay as the vacuum continues to slowly draw tissue into the cylinder – for e, this is an interesting and somewhat pleasurable sensation and can last from a few minutes to upward of 10 minutes.

For e when the vacuum is released on her labia there is not normally a great deal of sensation aside from the actual release of the vacuum and removal of the cylinder – her pussy is somewhat desensitized by that time. However, to the touch (hers or mine) it feels very good to the hand and to my mouth and tongue.

For e, the nipples are another story altogether. When the vacuum is released and the cylinder removed the nipples are very sensitive and tender to the touch. she enjoys it more and more, and we are doing it more frequently. Initially we were doing it mostly because I found it so enjoyable, pleasurable, intense and arousing. Whereas, for her it was ok but nothing super. Now it is, and is becoming, much more and increasingly enjoyable for her – nothing like practice my father always said.

There are a couple of pictures of e double vacuum pumped. That is her nipples being pumped by one set of cylinder while a separate set of cylinder are vacuum pumping her areola. The inner nipple cylinders were vacuum pumped in three stages to 20 inch Hg. First stage 12 inches Hg; second stage 5 minutes later to 15 inches Hg; third stage to 20 Hg 10 minutes later; then the outer cylinders were put in place and vacuum pumped to 12 inches Hg. These are then left on for 45-60 minutes.

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You can find more double pumping pictures and video clips here

e does not lactate. However, it is not uncommon for her to secrete small amounts of clear fluid from the nipple being pumped – which tastes faintly sweet and is erotically enjoyable. Some women do lactate especially if they are younger. e and I are both over 50…

How long to do pumping is difficult to say specifically, though it boils down to between 30 minutes and, on the long side,1hour and 30 minutes . The amount of vacuum and the length of time that are best for a given situation is due to a host of factors including diet, hydration in general and of the skin in particular, where you are in the menstrual cycle, etc… Listen to your body and how you are responding and it will tell you when it is too much or too long. Have patience, enjoy it and more importantly, perhaps, enjoy the process.

The amount of vacuum and the length of time is also effected, to a degree, by the diameter of the cylinder with regard to the fit on the nipple – too small a diameter at too high a vacuum and there is a risk of blistering quickly because the fit on the nipple wall at high vacuum is too tight, to large a cylinder and you are developing suction on the areola along with the nipple – not that there is anything wrong with that. There are other factors such as staging the amount of vacuum, versus simply pumping up. At a given vacuum level give it time before considering pumping higher, letting the vacuum slowly draw in the skin.

The most important factor is how it feels best. Built slowly. Let you body tell you and follow its directions. You will be fine as long as you do not let things go for too long or rush things. Regarding pain and sensitivity – it is not painful.

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When e is pumped and the vacuum is strong an intensity can build. However, it is not so much painful as uncomfortable. The only times e finds it intense or painful are at the beginning if pumped too fast or when, after a long while of being held under vacuum, there builds a soreness and discomfort that is almost immediately relieved upon release of vacuum and removal of the cylinder. It is important to not over pump initially, because e does not feel the full effects of the pump immediately.

There is a delay as the vacuum continues to slowly draw tissue into the cylinder – for e, this is an interesting and somewhat pleasurable sensation and can last from a few minutes to upward of 10 minutes. For e when the vacuum is released there is not normally a great deal of sensation aside from the actual release of the vacuum and removal of the cylinder which is very releasingly/releavingly pleasurable. When the vacuum is released and the cylinder removed the nipples are very sensitive and tender to the touch. However, to my touch it feels very good and it feels fantastic to my mouth and tongue.

Most of our vacuum cylinders and equipment came from LA PUMP and NW PUMPWORKS where we had our cylinders custom made. They both now appear to be defunct. You can get cylinders and pumps from the Stockroom http://www.stockroom.com and from Extreme Restraints http://www.extremerestraints.com/home.html. You need a good quality brass pump with vacuum gauge.

How big are your breast? Measure their diameter – as well as height from the front chest wall and height from the side of the chest wall in line with your nipple or from what ever point the breast height is the greatest. The key to this measurement is to feel the point on the side of the chest where the rib cage turns into the chest and starts to flatten out as it becomes the chest – as this is where the cylinder will tend to seat when the vacuum is applied. The second key is to not to obtain a standing breast diameter but rather a diameter with breast in hand…

Then the question you want to answer is how severe you want your first set of cylinders. for example is the breast in hand measurement – typical for a woman with 34 D breasts it is around, 4.5 inches in diameter? With breast in hand with a height of 4.5 inches from the side wall and 4-4.25 inches from the chest wall – then a cylinder of 4.25 inches in diameter with a height of 5.5 inches is not severe. but a cylinder of 3.75 inches diameter with a height of 6 inches may be severe.

The quick connect fittings can be found at: Colder Products Company (http://www.colder.com).

For more on e and methods, procedures, and discourse on breast and genital pumping please see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/femalepumpingandlabiastretching. You will need to go to message 1000-10015 and earlier to see relevant posting there. The files section also has pictures and some video clips.

By J & e. © Copyright J & e BDSM 24/7. All rights reserved.

Thousands of original authentic real life pictures and video clips of slave e with accompanying narratives. Pussy stretching, pussy weighting and pumping, bdsm sex, extreme bondage and discipline and much more. Please visit BDSM 24/7.

Tits nailing is a form of SM edge play involving hammering nails through the breast. Of course it hurts much more then play piercing because of the size of the nails, and also the hammering. But it can be done probably with a minimal amoung of pain. It is safe if done with care and forethought, with proper before and aftercare (antiseptic and keeping the wounds clean).

Nailing releases a flood of endorphins. And a lot of the thrill for both sadist and masochist comes from the picture in the mind. There you are held to something by your tits, you can’t move away there is a certain power in this for the sadist, and a total submission on the part of the masochist. There is a particular emotional/psychological dimension to driving a nail through a submissive’s breast or nipple that may be different in its primality and in its intensity from standard needle play, just as there is a difference, even, paradoxical or enigmatic as it may sound, a difference in intimacy, between the typical techniques of standard needle play and pushing a needle full-length into a girl’s nipple from the top or skewering her breast with a longer needle. Remember, it is never done without talk first with your submissive.

The nails used should be smooth and sharp. Infection is the biggest risk here. Therefore the nails used should be very smooth, with no microscopic debris that may be left in the breast. Ridges and twists found in many nails are good places for bacteria and other organic material to linger. Scarring is dependant upon a number of factors including, but not limited to, the particular characteristics of the flesh, any sort of stretching that’s done and the size of the nail. We recomend using small diameter round nails, like finishing nails perhaps (not screw nails).

Click here to see full gallery of tits nailed to the plank

If you want to minimize pain, you can sharpen the nails further before sterilizing them. But in general this is bad idea. Nails come in a smooth form that would be more likely to slide through the flesh then would a sharpened nail. Sharpening the nail would leave file marks which would tear flesh as opposed to slicing through. Look at your box of nails for the smoothest ones, they do vary.

The nails should be made of stainless steel. Iron nails in particular, even brand new and sterilized, there can still be a hint of oxidation on the surface that can cause a problem, as iron begins to oxidize the moment air touches it. Aluminum nails are a bit too weak and tend to break at the wrong time. Be carefull with some panel nails, they are grooved. Nails usually come in a box with a light coating of oil on them so cleaning them would be a good idea. You can try 6p-8p finishing nail as these are long enough to keep you from hitting your finger and mixing your blood. The higher the guage or nail (2p-4p-6p-8p) the thicker the nail will be. The nails shouldn’t be too large as in order to heal properly (the edges of flesh have to rejoin) after play. You might want to let the wounds bleed for a bit afterwards to help flush them.

Click here to see full gallery of nailing tits to the board

For those who don’t want to go that far try veterinary needles 10-12 gauge with metal reusable ferrules (the big end). You can pound them like nails but they will be a lot sharper. Or try long hat or stage pins or map pins or even just have your nips saftey pinned to something; the bed, a pillow, a cork bulletin board etc. Later on one can move to actual nails as in small diameter ones. This has the advantage of more drama.

The nails, the hammer, the flesh should all be sterilized. For implements boiling in water for 30 minutes to an hour, soaking them in alcohol for 6 hours (longer if they aren’t smooth), for the flesh a surgical scrub such as betadine. Of antiseptics, betadine is the best. Rubbing alcohol and hand sanitizers are also effective, but once they evaporate, recontamination is possible. Betadine, once on, can continue to destroy pathogens (within reason, of course, saliva may prove to contain too much bacteria to be neutralized). As a contact antiseptic, be sure to scrub nooks and crannies, like under the fingernails. Check for allergic reactions (very little likelihood, but let’s not be careless). There are “cold sterilants” out there which can be used to sterilize equipment, not sure if you can these at surgical supply stores, but it never hurts to ask. If you know any piercers they will probably be willing to autoclave the nails for you before hand. Boiling and autoclaving are effective for sterilization, but things don’t stay sterilized – touching the implements will contaminate them and reintroduce the risk of infection.

Click here to see full gallery of nailing breast to the wood

The type of wood, a clean board made of hardwood is best. Exactly the board used should be made of a fine grained medium hard wood. It doesn’t eliminate the need for caution though. Wood is organic. It carries bacteria which can cause infection. So when removing the sharp pointy things, you need to do it in 2 stages. First, you have to remove the wood, without letting the nails retract back into the flesh. Once that’s done, the sharp ends must be wiped down with betadine. Make sure the no wood particles remain. In many instances the nail, when pulled out will carry bits of wood with it which become lodged in the tissue and causes infection and maybe an abscess. What will be better in this form of play is the nail is removed from the wood, wiped with a clean lint free cloth soaked in a surgical scrub before being pulled out through the breast. This won’t guarantee that infection won’t set in, but may help reduce the risk of it.

There is an opinion that the nails can be left in for practically (within reason of course) any length of time. But this is not studied.

It’s not necessary to drive the nail deep into the board, doing so would make it undoubtedly harder to remove. The best way to remove a nail from a board is pulling it out with the other end of the hammer. Please remember that it hurts more coming out than going in. Have an alternative way of removing the nail, claw hammer and block, pry bar and block, etc. Cutting the top of the nail and lifting breasts off is not a good idea. You probably think that it is hard to remove a nail from a board without using some sort of fulcrum/leverage action against the board and the nail head. Cutting the nails to get them out as any cut from a saw or a nipper will leave a jagged burr or two that will have to go through the tissue. The ragged edge left by a cutter will require a lot of difficult work to smooth before pulling through. Also, as it has been mentioned above, ridges and twists, as instance after cutting the top of the nail, are good places for bacteria and other organic material to linger. So lifting the breast up a bit and cutting the nail between the breast and the board or cutting the top of the nail can be considered only as an alternative way.

Tits nailing can be erotic as it releases endorphins but with the breast tissue in particular it is of the utmost importance to know the area that you are working with. If you wish your slave to lactate ever or is they have fibroids it can cause severe damage that is not repairable. This is not an area where general knowledge works you must have specific knowledge of your slaves chest or breasts; it is good to even have mammogram films taken.

Should the breast be nailed off center, the odds are poor that you will hit significant nerves. Stay away from nipples and aerolas. They are too small of areas to take a nail being hammered through them. Try to put nails through the outer edges of the breasts by pulling out and extended her skin. The breast is a very spongy mass, there may be some slight internal bleeding. Afterwards some holes that unless you are a keloid healer will close up and go away in three weeks or so. There is little or not scarring, depending on the type of skin, and given the nails are not absurdly large in circumference.

Of course there is a risk of breast cancer, because of a concern that the ensuing scar tissue would make a mammogram harder to read, and therefore, cancer easier to miss in the early stages when it is most curable. But this is not studied.

Please remember, all what you think would be fun and exciting sometimes does not match reality. Remember that you are taking a large long-term health risk with this idea. But people usually do whatever they want regardless of what others think. If you want to try this edge play make sure you learn from an expert first. Don’t try this edge play without a professional somewhere nearby.

Attention! This information is provided for entertainment purposes only, should not be construed as advice. Do not use this article as the guide to action! In fact you shouldn’t follow it all.

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Needle play, play piercing or recreational acupuncture is an activity involving placing needles through the top layer of skin, or using needles for temporary piercings for the purpose of enjoying the experience rather than producing a permanent body decoration. Needles are removed from the body when the episode is complete, allowing the wounds to heal. Those who engage in play piercing may do so for self-expression, as a part of a ritual imitating mock tribal cultures, for the purpose of spiritual self-discovery, for sexual pleasure, for simple entertainment, raising awareness or relieving boredom. Needle play is considered edge play – the practice which involves significant risk of injury or physical harm.

Needle play or play piercing is different from regular piercing as it’s temporary and doesn’t involve jewellery. During a scene thin needles are stuck through the skin (close to the surface), possibly manipulated during play, and then taken out afterwards, usually with no lasting marks. It can involve one needle or whole rows or a pattern of them, sometimes laced together with threads. The pain received from a needle is a different kind of pain though. It’s more of a flash and then depending on the part of the body it fades to a dull throb and then nothing. But that initial flash is what draws to it.

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This is not the type of play for anyone with Aichmophobia (fear of pointed objects) or Belonephobia (fear of needles), but it is not something that non-painsluts need to be afraid of either. It can prove to be more of a sensual feeling than a pain experience. This type of edge play involves sexual stimulation through pain and is a powerful example of power play. Both men get their kicks from this mind trip, from the feelings of danger and being manhandled.

For most people the biggest kick in play piercing is psychological, perhaps the feeling of being so intimately and invasively penetrated or penetrating. A thin needle through the surface skin of much of the body hurts only as much as a minor injection, though it seems to stimulate endorphins in quantities out of proportion to its physiological impact! Once the needle is in, it can be manipulated to stretch the skin, which will release a further flood of endorphins without really hurting much either. Pain junkies note, however, that piercing can be made painful by choosing the right sites.

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The top is turned on by controlling and enjoying the trust of the sub, who in turn gets off on the anticipation, fear and surrender that comes with a scene of such intimate penetration. On being pierced he may feel a rush of powerful, sometimes overwhelming, pain-killing, euphoria-causing chemicals (endorphins). Needle play also has an understandable pull for men with a fetish for needles and medical scenes.

The piercing is shallow, going just under the skin’s surface, with the needle coming out of the skin very close to where it went in. Be cautious of shallow piercings if they are intended to stay in. They can easily be ripped out and tear the skin. Needle play that hurts a lot is not being done properly. It should feel like having an injection. Play piercing’s impact comes from its psychological effect, not just any pain it causes. Get medical help if serious pain carries on after needles are removed.

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Body parts pierced include back, arms, thighs, buttocks or, quite painful, around nipples. Temporary nipple piercing is enjoyed by people who like intense nipple play. The needle can be thrust through back of the nipple, taking care to include areolar tissue. An entire rosette of needles can be inserted. Don’t pierce wrists, hands, internal organs, bones, eyes or the spine. Avoid the armpit, sternum and areas with many veins. Ball sacks and foreskins can be pierced but this is advanced needle play that needs to be learnt from an experienced player. Play piercing involving the genitals is a special topic, with special precautions that must be followed to avoid causing permanent damage; don’t try any sort of genital piercing without further training from someone who is familiar with and competent at genital piercing.

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Do not attempt to temporarily pierce a person without proper training and education. This type of play is not for the inexperienced. The best way to learn needle play is one-on-one with an experienced player. Also, have everything you need set up before you start. Once you are sterile and gloved, and your bottom flying on endorphines, you do not want to have to stop the scene because you just realized you were out of something or can’t find something.

A sub should be checked during and after needle play as they might faint, shake or go pale under the influence of hormones released during a scene. Aftercare for needle play should include monitoring the bottom for signs of shock, emotional reactions etc. Some times reactions set in long after the needle play itself is over. Sometimes after-care can repair a scene gone wrong, or help both parties process their feelings about what just occurred. Do not use this time to negotiate, just be there with each other and come down from the high. The bonding that happens during after-care can open up more closeness and trust to allow your BDSM relationship to deepen and feel meaningful on a spiritual level as well.

We’ll discuss needle play safety tips in our following articles. So please click here to subscribe to our news.

Here you can find more info about needles for play piercing.

You can find more play piercing photos at our Play Piercing Photos page.

Attention! This is an evaluation version. Do not use this article as the guide to action!

Top Pain – masochism website – play piercing photos

Extra Pain – needle torture website